Thanks to those who have sent pictures and words for the latest newsletter. Keep them coming. Boat building continues, and they should all be ready in time for..........(?)
I have made good progress with my deck plug, see photo.
The deck will have a 1 inch flange which will fit inside the hull. This will give a nice large bonding area which should result in a really strong and rigid hull and deck. I used this method on my Coast Guard boat, and it worked really well. There was a 2 or 3mm gap between the flange and the hull, and I applied a generous coating of polyester filler rather than adhesive, which turned out well.
I have been documenting my progress over on Model Boat Mayhem,
case you want to have a look:
The waterjets come from https://www.oceanworkscale.com/shop/ - delivery takes about a month as they are based in Hong Kong. But I have used them twice, and the goods have arrived each time.
28mm RC Boat Water Jet with MJP Reverse Bucket (Without Motor) 28mm Steering Nozzle Set (with MJP Reverse Bucket)
I bought a pair of Turnigy Aerodrive 3542 1185kv Outrunners from Hobbyking. These should bolt directly onto the Waterjet faceplate, and there is a solid brass coupling supplied with the Jets, to connect motor shaft to impeller shaft.
Hi John, have attached some pictures of lockdown Riva and submarines in dry dock.
Details of a possible sound unit: Sense Innovations ESS Dual Plus on TRX 4 - Netcruzer RC<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M7OrlVj9bU&list=RDCMUCQJqFVs1ESJI7ske9h6c45Q&index=1>
I have nothing per se against the use of P38 but is bad
form to sell a hull with 2 different diameter propshafts and rudder posts even if it does add to the challenge.
Back to more fun
with the chisel
Balmoral. I have nothing per se against the use of P38 but is bad form to sell a hull with 2 different diameter propshafts and rudder posts even if it does add to the challenge. Back to more fun with the chisel
I have been brush painting 40 small white window frames for the window panes that I had cut from black plastic for the Balmoral..........tedious but necessary if itís going to work.
Tested the challenger on our pool today for the first time.
Results: 1 It floats! 2 It goes forward and 3 it goes forward
Since its first test it now only goes in a straight line! Various modifications will follow. As the Levi drive 'rudders' are out of the flow of water a throttle mixer is being tried.
Chris J has restarted building a 46inch Huntsman 31 that has been 'resting' for 10 years. The side panels and bow blocks are now in place and the big question is whether to fit two motors or just one.
From Malcolm Place
I have been using a 7805 chip to reduce 12 volts to 5 for ancillary needs but due to not using capacitors, one of the modules failed. I have noticed that Bangood supply a professionally made module for £1.99 if anyone wants to dabble, it saves having two batteries.
From John K.
The rudder on a Fairey Huntress is attached to the outside of the transom. The rudder shaft can be seen in the picture below. The tiller faces forward through the transom under a cover between the two uppermost steps.
The boarding ladder incorperates a cavitation plate over the rudder blade
Having discovered this, I am replacing the ladder that had I printed from a scaled up Sarik plan, with a wooden one of a more correct design.
Latest bit of 3D printing - a box for my Picaxe based throttle mixer units, shown here next to a 9G servo.
....and finally from Mark:
I have finally got my marble run working, and you can see it on You Tube,
I have finally got my marble run working, and you can see it on You Tube, here
Who says that I spend too much time in my shed?